There are of course many differences in the ways of life and customs between the UK and Poland, just as there are between any two countries in the world. Perhaps at times such as Christmas, these are magnified and sometimes seem strange, but in my experience so far here in Central Europe, most of these differences seem rather good.
I will return to Christmas later but right now I will tell you about some of these peculiarities or should I say variant 'modus operandi', after all, these different habits should not really be described as 'peculiar'...for the people who live here in Poland they are the norm, not the opposite.
However let us start with the public transport system. Buses first of all. Krakow, as does most of Poland, relies heavily on fossil fuels and as such very often in the colder months of the year there can be a huge problem with smog and very poor air quality. However in more recent years this problem is being addressed and one of the main areas that has been dramatically improved is carbon emissions from public transport. To this end Krakow City Council has a fleet of electric and/or hybrid 'bendy buses' or articulated vehicles and they have the fifth highest quantity of these in any European city.
They are immaculately clean and there are hundreds of them. Carrying approximately 90 passengers they weave their web across the city from the very early hours to late at night. There is a direct bus to the airport ( stops right outside our apartment ) The coverage around the city and its environs is superb and it is a cheap way of travelling. Here in Krakow it costs £20 a month. Compared to Plymouth, for example, it would cost about £81 for a months unlimited travel in comparative geographical zones. In real terms given the standard of living and minimum wage etc it is about half the price here. That is, of course if you buy the pass rather than pay for each individual journey. The latter being probably the only real thing that is an absolute nightmare here and that is, trying to pay and validate a ticket on a very crowded bus that is articulated and throwing you around all over the place. Yes, if you don't have a pass you must go to one of the machines on the bus and then get it stamped in a different machine. Believe you me, during busy times the buses are rammed and at least 40 odd people will be standing making it more difficult to get off than get on!! However this in effect contributes to the best point about this transport system. The bus only stops to let people on and off and the driver has no interaction whatsoever with the passengers, takes no money and therefore the operation is a very slick one.
Bus stops are uncannily pristine. Cleaned every Sunday morning and most have shelters with a clean bench, free of chewing gum, fag ends and bins that are not overflowing. I have never waited more than ten minutes anywhere for a bus and it is very unusual to wait that long.
Some of you who know me well, will be only too familiar with my rants over the years about the public transportation system in the UK(Plymouth). I have argued that we really have missed the boat regarding electrification and the reinstatement of local train lines to ease road congestion and often gridlock. Forget the excruciatingly over budget white elephant that is HS2 for example, benefitting a tiny percentage of commuters. The UK could learn much from the superb bus and tram system here. Here, being a country that came blinking out into the sun of a the post Communist controlled regime only 30 years ago. I am not yet certain of how local politics work here but I am guessing that they seem more concerned about the general well being of the infra structure of the city than personal gratification. A post for the future I am sure.
So, on to taxis!
Have you ever tried to get a cab in the last couple of years on a Friday or Saturday night? Anytime from 7.00pm to about 1.00am you are likely to have been told, if indeed you can get to speak to anyone, that there is a two or three hour wait. Nothing specific just a vague indication that there are no taxis available and the company that runs the taxi firm has not got a clue when one will be available. Sound familiar? The whole availability of taxis in Plymouth, for example, at the weekends is ridiculous and far worse than it was thirty or so years ago. The situation is so bad that I have heard many people , myself included actually say that they would rather stay in than go out for rear of not being able to get home.
Well, yet again and don't ask me why, but here in a city three times the size of the 'Muff' taxis are plentiful, on time, realistically priced and what's more, you can, with some of the companies, order one where the driver speaks English. Overall a very professional, efficient and polite service.
Well, there we are, here are a just few of the differences that I am seeing here in Krakow, Central Europe ( don't forget, Central, not Eastern Europe! )
The transport system delivers us effortlessly and punctually to Christmas,2019. Traditionally celebrated on the 24th December by preparing twelve dishes to represent each month of the year or the twelve Apostles, depending on which book you read. This feast begins when the first star appears in the early evening Winter sky commemorating the Star of Bethlehem, which according to the New Testament guided the Wise Men to the birthplace of Christ.
Christmas in Poland is a pescatarian's dream. In strict keeping with old Catholic tradition, Poles usually abstain from eating meat and drinking hard liquor on Christmas Eve. However wine and fish are acceptable and the latter is featured in many traditional dishes. We queued at the supermarket to buy some Carp which we had as our main course with a spicy tomato, onion and chilli relish with paprika roasted potatoes. Not quite traditional but a bit of a hybrid.
For a starter we had to two freshly baked mini loaves with a delicious mushroom, cream, onion, parsley and cheese topping baked in the oven and served with Russian salad and kapusta z grzybami or braised cabbage and mushrooms. The latter was somewhat suprisingly very good, especially the flavour of the mushroom which was enhanced by using its' own
marinating liquor from the broth that it was simmered in.
Dessert was a delicious home made lemon tart served with cream. We have just returned from a walk in town trying to burn off some of yesterday's excesses before we start again! I will be cooking a traditional English Christmas dinner on New Years Day.
Do I miss anything about being in the UK at this time of year? Well, firstly what I don't miss is the build up to Christmas...the madness of the shopping frenzy, not being able to park anywhere, the part time drinkers usually manifested by groups of 20 or 30 feral,middle aged pricks, all wearing Christmas jumpers, being obnoxious, pissing in the street and fighting. No I don't miss any of that but I do miss the smell of the turkey cooking and most of all of course being around friends and family.
However I made the choice to move here based on common sense and an attempt to secure a different and exciting lifestyle and I feel I have without doubt made the right decision. It is still an adventure and I am sure it will continue to be, for as long as I still have the appetite to discover more of this fascinating and wonderful country.
Where would I rather be right now?....
Wesolych Swiat, na zdrowie.....
Solidarnosc....onwards we go
